Rear Hatch — Squeaking

Causes of a Noisy Rear Hatch

A noisy rear hatch (squeaking or rattling) has several common causes:

Dried or shrunk hatch seals: Over time, hatch seals dry out and shrink, allowing the hatch to fit loosely. This can often be corrected by adjusting the two posts on the rear hatch. To adjust: loosen the lock nut beside the post, turn the post clockwise to extend it, then re-tighten the lock nut. Do not over-tighten — the hatch will become difficult to operate.

Unlubricated latch mechanism: Periodic lubrication of the latch mechanism on both sides with a good quality grease is required. A combination of lubrication and post adjustment will often resolve the problem.

Separated hatch glass: The most serious cause is the rear glass separating from the hatch frame due to repeated slamming. Vibration from slamming the hatch causes the adhesive bond to fail over time.

Tip: Always close the rear hatch by lowering it gently until it contacts the hatch seal, then pressing down firmly on the rear of the hatch to engage the latch. Do not slam it.

Repairing Separated Glass

Introduction

Urethane-based sealants work best for re-bonding the rear hatch glass. 3M Window Weld Urethane Auto Glass Sealant is one effective choice.

Hatch removal requires an assistant. The procedure notes below include experience from a contributor who documented the glass separation process in detail.

Procedure

1. Remove the rear hatch as follows: a. Disconnect the rear window defroster wires (one on each side). b. If the vehicle has a rear wiper, disconnect the wiper power and control wires from the wiring harness. These connections are accessible through the side panel, not at the rear pillar. The wires must then be withdrawn through the hole in the rear pillar near the top of the hatch before the hatch can be removed. c. Disconnect the rear hatch shocks. d. Lower the rear hatch but do not allow it to latch. A piece of wood placed between the back of the hatch and the body prevents the hatch from latching accidentally. e. From inside the car, remove the bolts holding the rear hatch hinges to the body (2 hinges, 2 bolts per hinge). On early cars a cover conceals the hinges; on later cars the rear header panel must be removed. f. Have an assistant help lift the rear hatch off the car.

2. Remove the trim strips from around the edge of the hatch. Clips hold the strips in place — on most cars these are accessed from the underside of the hatch.

   Contributor note (Russ Bullock): The spoiler trim is difficult to remove. The side trim is attached with knurled-knob nuts with nearly useless flat-blade slots — they require brute force to turn. The rear spoiler screws are very soft and most will need to be drilled out.

3. Carefully work to pry the frame off the hatch glass. Flexible scrapers work well for separating the glass from the frame.

   Contributor note (Russ Bullock): Separating the glass from the frame is the most difficult step. A 1½″ wide flexible putty knife works, but the sealant is extremely tough. WD-40 applied to the working surfaces helps. Sharpen the blade edge on one side only (like scissors) and keep the unsharpened side against the glass. Additionally, use a sharp utility knife to cut the outer edge of the glass from the sealant from the top side of the hatch. Keep a thin wood wedge inserted at the point of separation to hold the gap open as you work. Four hours of separation time is not unusual.

4. Using adhesive remover and a scraper, remove all remaining sealant from the frame.

   Contributor note (Russ Bullock): Clean the glass with a razor blade scraper followed by 4X steel wool. Avoid Scrub-Brite pads — they scratch the glass. Use fine polishing compound and a cotton cloth to remove any scratches in the bonding area. Solvents including GumOut carb cleaner (with xylene) will not soften this sealant. Only extended UV exposure breaks it down over time.

5. Reinstall the hatch frame on the car with the hatch in the closed position. Do not attach the shocks yet.

6. Verify that the hatch frame fits properly against the hatch seals. If the frame has bent, straighten it to achieve a proper seal.

7. Apply a continuous bead of sealant around the entire hatch frame, following the adhesive manufacturer's directions.

8. Place the glass onto the frame and press down around the edges to ensure full contact.

   Tip from Vaughn Scott: With the glass upside-down, position it behind the car with the rear edge facing forward. Place the rear edge in the rear of the frame and rotate forward until the front of the glass is about a foot from being in place. Have one person hold it while the other goes inside the car to take the weight of the glass. The outside person then removes their hands and the glass is lowered into final position.

9. Fill any gaps between the glass and frame with additional sealant.

10. Allow the adhesive to cure for at least 24 hours.

11. Reinstall the trim strips and clips. Unbolting the hatch hinges may be necessary for proper trim fit.

12. Attach the shocks to the hatch.