Buying a 944 or 944 Turbo — Inspection Guide

Before You Buy

The best and most frequently given advice on purchasing a 944 is to buy the best example you can afford. A car that needs a little fixing up may look like a good deal, but over the long haul it typically costs more. The exception is if you do all your own work.

Maintenance records are essential. Some maintenance items on a 944 carry a significant cost. When comparing two cars, the one with a recent clutch replacement may be the better choice even if it costs more upfront. The timing belts are a critical maintenance item — verify that they have been replaced or inspected at the required intervals. If records cannot confirm this, either pass on the car, have the belts replaced before purchase, or negotiate a lower price and replace them immediately after purchase.

Have the car inspected by a 944-familiar mechanic. A qualified 944 mechanic can identify what needs immediate attention, what can wait, and what typical ongoing maintenance costs will look like.

Underside Inspection

To perform an adequate inspection, the car must be put on a lift with the belly pan removed.

1. Timing cover area — Inspect the area between the rear timing cover and the block for oil and coolant. Oil can indicate a leaking front crankshaft seal or balance shaft seal. Water normally indicates a leaking water pump, though it can also indicate a leaking head gasket.

2. Oil filter housing area — Inspect for oil around the oil filter housing. Some oil residue here is common from filter changes, but the oil pressure sensor and filter housing itself can also leak.

3. Power steering system — Inspect the power steering pump, hoses, and rack for leaks. The hose from the reservoir to the pump is a common leak source. Tighten clamps if needed, but do not overtighten — the reservoir is plastic and the nozzle can crack. A leaking hose may not seem critical but can be expensive to replace.

4. Exhaust manifolds — Inspect for cracks or signs of leakage (soot on engine or suspension parts). Exhaust manifolds are expensive to replace, including salvage yard examples.

5. Balance shaft housing covers — Inspect for leakage. Repairs here are not difficult but are labor-intensive.

6. Motor mounts — Inspect for condition. The 944 FAQ describes a method for checking motor mounts. Labor for replacement runs approximately four hours.

7. Heat shields — Several heat shields protect critical components underneath the car. Have someone familiar with 944s verify that all shields are present. One of the most important protects the starter — without its heat shield, the starter can fail quickly.

8. Oil pan gasket — Check for leakage.

9. Tie rod ends and ball joints — Inspect for cracked or missing protective boots. On later-model 944s, the ball joints are not individually replaceable — the entire control arm must be replaced or rebuilt.

10. Clutch hydraulics — Check the master cylinder and slave cylinder for leakage.

11. External oil cooler (if equipped) — If the car has an external oil cooler (to the right of the radiator on turbocharged cars), inspect the cooler and oil lines for leaks.

12. Coolant lines — Check all coolant lines for leakage. On both normally aspirated and turbocharged cars equipped with the turbo water pump, the blank plastic nozzle on the front of the pump has an o-ring that commonly leaks.

13. Coolant reservoir — Check the coolant. A brown, frothy mixture indicates oil mixing with coolant in the oil filter/cooler housing. This is most common on normally aspirated cars but can also occur on turbocharged models.

14. Rear cam housing cover — Inspect for oil leakage at the back of the camshaft housing near the firewall. The rear cam housing cover plate uses a cork gasket that commonly leaks.

15. Distributor housing — Inspect for oil leakage. Several seals in the housing can fail.

16. Fuel lines — Inspect the fuel lines going to the fuel rail for brittleness or cracking. These have been the subject of recalls and have caused engine fires.

17. Plug wires — Inspect for brittleness or cracking.

18. Transaxle half shafts — Check for excessive play. Some axial play is normal, but there should be little or no play perpendicular to the shaft axis.

Running and Driving Inspection

Engine Running — Static

1. Idle speed — The car should idle steadily between 900 and 1000 rpm. A high, low, or hunting idle can indicate (among other things) a sticking idle stabilizer valve.

2. Oil pressure — With the engine cold, oil pressure should read between 4 and 5 bar at idle. As the engine warms, pressure will gradually decrease to around 2 bar. It may drop slightly below 2 bar on a very hot day or under hard driving, but should never fall below 1 bar.

   • Low oil pressure at all temperatures can indicate a sticking oil pressure relief valve, which can lead to bearing damage. Do not run the engine until the cause is determined and corrected.
   • Oil pressure that never drops below 4 bar when warm typically indicates a faulty oil pressure sending unit.

3. Coolant temperature — Should read between the second and third white marks on the gauge. Temperatures consistently at or above the second white mark should be investigated.

4. Injector noise — A clicking sound from the engine bay is normal — this is the injectors firing. Valve train noise can be masked by injector noise; use a mechanic's stethoscope if there is any doubt.

5. Engine vibration — Vibration at idle can indicate bad motor mounts or an incorrectly installed balance shaft belt. Motor mount vibration typically disappears when engine speed increases to approximately 1500 rpm.

6. Exhaust manifold leaks — With the engine running, listen for exhaust leaks at the manifolds using a length of hose as a stethoscope.

Driving Inspection

7. Road vibration — Vibrations while driving can indicate alignment problems, worn tie rod ends, ball joints, sway bar bushings, or tire imbalance and abnormal wear.

8. Boost pressure (turbocharged cars) — At maximum boost, an unmodified 944 Turbo should produce approximately 1.7–1.75 bar of boost.

9. CV joint noise — Clicking from the rear end while driving, especially during cornering, typically indicates worn CV joints. It can also indicate wheel bearing or transaxle problems. CV joint noise sometimes can be resolved by repacking the CV joint and boot.