Motor Mounts — Replacing
Step-by-step motor mount replacement procedure for the 944, including jacking technique, bolt length selection for left vs right side, thread chasing tip, and all torque specifications.
Denne prosedyren er ikke oversatt ennå og vises på engelsk.
Introduction
New motor mounts are considerably taller than worn ones, which makes removing the old mounts much easier than installing the new ones. Keep this in mind during the procedure.
Tools Needed
- Jack stands
- Floor jack
- Pry bar
- Metric socket set
- Metric wrench set
- Torque wrench
Parts and Part Numbers
| Part | Part Number |
|---|---|
| Motor mounts (2) | 951 375 042 04 |
| Bolts (M8 × 38 mm) | 900 378 024 02 |
| Bolts (M8 × 42 mm) | 900 378 034 02 |
| Washers (4) | N 015 401 3 |
* The number of bolts of each length is determined during replacement. The correct length for the left side can be determined before starting as described in Step 16.
Procedure
-
Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels several turns.
-
Place the car on jack stands.
-
Remove the front wheels.
-
Remove the belly pan.
-
Remove the front sway bar.
-
Remove the motor mount heat shields (M6 bolt, 10 mm socket).
-
Remove the lower motor mount lock nuts (M6 bolt, 17 mm open-end wrench).
-
Remove the upper motor mount bolts. These are difficult to access. Use a flex-head ratchet and 13 mm socket, or a short 13 mm wrench. If the old mounts are full rubber mounts, a second 13 mm wrench is needed to hold the nut on the bottom of the mount.
-
Place a block of wood on the floor jack pad (as a cushion) and jack up the engine on the oil pan to remove the tension on the motor mounts.
-
Use a sharp object to scribe a mark around the cross-member mounting bolts (4 per side).
-
Support the engine under the oil pan using a floor jack and a piece of plywood (approximately 12" × 12") as a jacking pad to evenly distribute the engine weight.
-
Jack the engine up just enough to remove most of the weight from the motor mounts.
-
Loosen the cross-member mounting bolts (19 mm) until nearly removed. The easiest method is to completely remove them one at a time and then thread them back in two turns.
-
Between jacking the engine slightly and lowering the cross-member by loosening the cross-member bolts, there should be enough room to slide the old motor mounts out. A pry bar may be needed to raise one side of the engine slightly. The mount must be twisted to clear the pocket in the side of the cross-member.
-
Before installing the new mounts, consider chasing the threads in the mounting bolt holes with an M8 tap. Insufficiently cut threads in some mounts have caused threads to strip during mounting bolt installation.
-
The right-side motor mount uses two M8 × 38 mm bolts and standard-thickness washers. (Old spacer washers are not used with the new-style mounts.) Install the right-side mounting bolts and washers.
-
To determine the correct bolt length for the left side: measure the thickness of the ledge at the bottom of the left-side mounting bracket where the mounting bolt holes penetrate. If the ledge is 21 mm thick, use two M8 × 38 mm bolts. If the ledge is 25 mm thick, use two M8 × 42 mm bolts. Install the appropriate bolts with washers. Using a bolt that is too long will damage the new motor mount.
-
Installation is the reverse of removal.
-
Torque all mounting hardware to the following specifications:
| Fastener | Torque |
|---|---|
| Sway bar to chassis (8 mm bolts, 13 mm socket) | 17 ft-lbs |
| Upper motor mount bolts (8 mm bolts, 13 mm socket) | 17 ft-lbs |
| Cross-member to body bolts (12 mm bolts, 19 mm socket) | 62 ft-lbs |