Front Wheel Bearings - Checking, Adjustment, Repacking, and Replacement

Checking and Adjustment

Tools

• Small flat-tip screwdriver or probe (early cars, pre-1985.5 only)
• Medium flat-tip screwdriver
• Hammer
• Chisel
• 6 mm Allen head wrench or long Allen head socket
• Floor jack
• Jack stands

Procedure

1. Raise the front of the vehicle on jack stands.
2. Spin the front wheel and listen for noise. Also verify the wheel rolls freely without excessive resistance.
3. To check bearing adjustment, remove the front wheel.
4. Remove the wheel bearing grease cap by tapping around its back edge with a hammer and chisel. On pre-1985.5 models, the speedometer is driven by a cable off the left front wheel; first remove the E-clip from the cable end using a small flat-tip screwdriver or probe before removing the grease cap.
5. Use the medium flat-tip screwdriver to turn the bearing thrust washer (just behind the locking collar). Ensure the screwdriver is not resting on the locking collar or hub. If the washer spins freely or cannot be turned at all, the bearing needs adjustment.
6. If adjustment is required, loosen the locking collar Allen head bolt using a 6 mm Allen head wrench or socket. Rotate the hub until the detent in the lip aligns with the Allen bolt head.
7. Turn the locking collar as needed:
   • Washer too free → turn collar clockwise to tighten.
   • Washer too tight → turn collar counter-clockwise to loosen.
8. When properly adjusted, tighten the Allen bolt on the locking collar, replace the bearing cap, reinstall the front wheel, and lower the vehicle.

Bearing Replacement

Tools

• Small flat-tip screwdriver or probe (pre-1985.5 only)
• Hammer
• Chisel
• Round-tip punch (brass preferred)
• 6 mm Allen head wrench or long Allen head socket
• Floor jack
• Jack stands

Procedure

1. Raise the front of the vehicle on jack stands.
2. Remove the front wheels.
3. Remove the brake pads (see BRAKE-02).
4. Remove the two caliper retaining bolts, slide the caliper off the rotor, and hang the caliper out of the way with shock cord or wire.
5. Remove the wheel bearing grease cap (see Step 4 in Checking section above for early-car cable procedure).
6. Loosen the locking collar Allen head bolt and turn the locking collar counter-clockwise to remove it from the spindle.
7. Pull the hub and rotor assembly straight off the spindle. The thrust washer and outer wheel bearing will likely fall out — be ready to catch them.
8. Pry the grease seal out of the back of the hub and remove the inner wheel bearing.
9. Use the hammer and round punch to tap the bearing races out of the hub. Alternate tapping on opposite sides along the two channels inside the hub. Take care to keep the punch angle consistent to avoid damaging the inner hub surface.
10. Once both races are removed, clean the inner hub surfaces thoroughly.
11. Install the new bearing races: a. Place the new bearing races in a freezer for at least one hour (overnight preferred). b. Heat the hub assemblies in an oven at 250°F (120°C) for at least 30 minutes — the longer the easier the fit. c. Using gloves, remove the hubs from the oven and place on a flat work surface. d. Remove the races from the freezer and insert them into the hub. With proper temperature differential they should drop in with little or no force.
12. Pack the new bearings with a good quality moly bearing grease. A bearing packer is preferred but packing by pressing grease into the roller cage by hand is nearly as effective.
13. Place the inner bearing into the back of the hub and install a new bearing seal.
14. Place the hub assembly onto the spindle and insert the outer wheel bearing.
15. Place the thrust washer and locking collar onto the spindle.
16. Adjust the bearing as described in the Checking and Adjustment section.
17. When properly adjusted, tighten the Allen bolt on the locking collar, replace the bearing cap, reinstall the front wheel, and lower the vehicle.